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The new R2 will be better than the first. Thats the plan! The R2 you see in the 'portfolio' page will be reworked into an R5D4 robot. A completely new R5D4 dome will be scratch built to fit onto the existing R2 and another R2 will be created from scratch to replace the old one....sorry but neither of these completed replicas will be for sale.......R5D5 is now finished and in the 'portfolio' page...!!!
Job one...this is the boring bit.....sourcing all those bits that go together like a huge airfix kit. some of the bits can be made from scratch, some will be bought. Through building the last R2, contacts were made with fellow enthusiasts who supplied useful bits and advice. This may take some time so building will start using whats here already and hopping from job to job as more bits arrive.
The parts that will be used are only good quality bits. Quality is very important and substandard parts or missized parts that will detract from the overall effect will not be used.
As progression is made through the build, new pics will be added and short descriptions of each stage. This will hopefully give you an insight into how to create a prop replica that looks good for not too much cash.
I think we'll start with an easy one. The holo eyes are pre cast so all they need is a light clean up and primer. Theres 4 parts to each holoeye, and once they are assembled, the eye will rock on a pivot.
The 3 holoeyes are now painted and assembled. They will now be fitted with pivots just below the collar to allow movement.
Next will be cleanup and trimming of the dome. This is a single fibreglass piece with main eye and all fittings cast into it. The locating holes for the holoeyes and logic displays will then be cut out. An MDF disc is then fitted into the dome base and everything primered.
The dome is now ready for paint. the first colour to go on is the blue.... plasticote royal blue which is a good likeness. The blue areas will then be masked before adding the silver. Its this way around as last time the silver was done first and the masking tape left a mark on the silver. learn by your mistakes!
The next job is the legs.....starting with the 'horseshoes' aquired from a friend in a trade. Trading is a good and cheap way to find something without damaging the bank.
These parts were scratch built. They are the long detail pieces that fit onto the legs. Some similar parts were found on ebay which were good but not in the correct scale when placed alongside some of the other parts being used. These were made to fit in with the other parts.
Just got the rest of the resin parts to complete the legs. All the white parts are fibreglass. The fibreglass on the inside will be added to to strengthen them. Cable trunking will also be added to take wiring for the lights etc....
Just a test fit. There is also a fibreglass tube to add onto the back that joins the legs to the body. As the legs get built pics will be added so you can see how they go together....
Next the legs were bolted and screwed together and gaps filled. The original horseshoe castings (with inside grooves) are very slightly smaller than the leg sections they fit onto so filling and sanding easily fixed this. Then the other large leg details added and filled.
These legs took approx 4 hours work to get them to this level (inc waiting for filler to cure).
Next is to add the shoulder tubes that attatch the legs to the body. But first the backs of the legs need to be made. This is done using 4mm acrylic sheet or 4mm MDF. I use acrylic as theres a manufacturer just down the hill who always has a skip full!
First leg back done. I used the 4mm acrylic as I can get a better finish than with the mdf. The acrylic was also cut at a slight angle so allow a thicker fill of car filler. A wooden frame was fixed inside the leg to give me something to screw the leg back onto. The shoulder tube I am using is made in a mould from a piece that was test fit to fit into the body perfectly. Everything past the dotted line is excess and can be cut off if required.
The next job is to attatch all the smaller resin detail pieces and then repeat with the other leg.
Whilst the legs were being put together I started on the body. This has been made in poly resin backed in fibreglass. An mdf disc was fitted into the top of the body and fibreglassed in from the inside. The body has some small resin parts that need fitting so they will be next. Theres not alot to do here as the casting is quite clean.
Side view showing the hole that the leg/shoulder tube slots into...
Heres the raw castings for the middle leg and foot. Cast from original pieces except from the leg itself which I scratch built to fit the original pieces.
These just need minor filling and sanding before primer.
This is a dry assembly of the main body and leg parts prior to primer.
Closeup of the foot, battery box and ankle....small detail pieces yet to be added.
Some paint goes on! The main parts got primed and painted in the 3 main colours..white, blue and silver. Ive gone back to using Humbrol spray paints and ditched the eratic Plasticote ones. Once these had some drying time the weathering began. What you see in the pics below is the first stage of weathering which is an initial rubbing over with black weathershield. Other colours and paints will be applied in due course. I think this is heading towards a more weathered example than Ive done before...these things tend to paint themselves sometimes!
Nearly there! Next photos arriving soon.....